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PascL
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« on: January 02, 2017, 09:11:04 AM »

Happy New Years all, been a while!
Hunting for best electric temp controller for keg 4000, but not interested in drilling or permanent mods.
I have decent/good success with TTT but not reliable or confident for overnights with it. Last time I did an overnight my maverick woke me up 5 times because temp was too low, almost lost my fire.
Lots of you seem to use them so what are your opinions!
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Cookin' in the cold
RG
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2017, 01:15:47 PM »

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=397
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BBQ & Friends. What else do you need? Beer? Okay. Beer, BBQ & Friends! Dilly Dilly!
thedietz
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2017, 07:40:01 AM »

I have a pitmaster iq120 but i am fed up with it.  I have had 4 probes fail and you have to then buy a new pitmaster probe which is about $20 plus shipping!

At this point i have a failed probe AGAIN and i am not giving them any more money.  I think i am going to build a HeaterMeter.  Some people have had much better luck with Pitmaster than me...but mine has sucked.  When it works its great...but too many issues.
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SmallBBQr
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2017, 08:44:06 AM »

I have a pitmaster iq120 but i am fed up with it.  I have had 4 probes fail and you have to then buy a new pitmaster probe which is about $20 plus shipping!

At this point i have a failed probe AGAIN and i am not giving them any more money.  I think i am going to build a HeaterMeter.  Some people have had much better luck with Pitmaster than me...but mine has sucked.  When it works its great...but too many issues.

Are you hanging your probes with the wire above the probe opening end?  i.e.  I have only had one fail when I place the probe/wire in a position to allow liquid to flow down the wire to where it meets the probe metal - I think it is allowing liquid to seep inside.  After starting to place my probes so the probe metal is ABOVE the wire (and I have also used food safe silicon to add sealing), I have never had one fail since. 
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Kick Ash Divide & Conquer Kegger
Creature
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2017, 01:28:43 PM »

DigiQ DX2 was my first and I still use it for cooks when I'm home and not cooking overnight.

I built and use a heatermeter for overnights and when I'm away from home so I can keep an eye on things with my phone.

Added a dedicated port a few years back.  Highly recommended and much more convenient.
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thedietz
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2017, 05:57:42 AM »

Are you hanging your probes with the wire above the probe opening end?  i.e.  I have only had one fail when I place the probe/wire in a position to allow liquid to flow down the wire to where it meets the probe metal - I think it is allowing liquid to seep inside.  After starting to place my probes so the probe metal is ABOVE the wire (and I have also used food safe silicon to add sealing), I have never had one fail since. 

When i am doing a large butt I only have the main grate in the keg.  And it is clipped to the grate.  SO i guess yes..i am cooking with the wire above the metal probe.

I can see how flipping it could keep moisture out....but in my opinion that is a crapty design if i can't clip it to the grate like it is designed.  how do you use it if you only have the main grate in? 
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PascL
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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2017, 09:05:55 AM »

Im super nervous to do any major mods to the keg, considering I'm not very handy! (the lady reminds me constantly)
I just want one that can use an adapter into the bottom damper!
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Cookin' in the cold
thedietz
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« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2017, 08:01:05 AM »

DigiQ DX2 was my first and I still use it for cooks when I'm home and not cooking overnight.

I built and use a heatermeter for overnights and when I'm away from home so I can keep an eye on things with my phone.

Added a dedicated port a few years back.  Highly recommended and much more convenient.

Creature....currently building a heatermeter.  What method did you use to connect the blower to your keg.  Could you share a few photos?
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Walrus
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« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2017, 04:02:38 PM »

https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?46004-INTRODUCING-the-quot-Roto-Damper-quot

I went the servo damper blower route, and attached the conduit adapter through a sheet of aluminum that I cut to slip into open intake... you open the intake door and the plate is the same size as the opening. It slips upward on an angle into the upper track, then pivots into place and slides down into the lower track.
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Creature
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« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2017, 04:32:33 PM »

Creature....currently building a heatermeter.  What method did you use to connect the blower to your keg.  Could you share a few photos?

Mine is a heatermeter 4.0 build and I re-used my DigiQ 10CFM fan at the time (had to change a capacitor on the board to support it), since I had already installed a dedicated port ( bulkhead adapter: http://Https://bbqguru.com/storenav?CategoryId=2&ProductId=10) in my keg.

Servo-damper blower is the better way to go on a new build and maybe Walrus can help with the connection.
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Walrus
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« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2017, 08:34:42 AM »

You can see the plate here:





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thedietz
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« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2017, 12:29:27 PM »

Mine is a heatermeter 4.0 build and I re-used my DigiQ 10CFM fan at the time (had to change a capacitor on the board to support it), since I had already installed a dedicated port ( bulkhead adapter: http://Https://bbqguru.com/storenav?CategoryId=2&ProductId=10) in my keg.

Servo-damper blower is the better way to go on a new build and maybe Walrus can help with the connection.

Did you buy the roto damper somewhere?  I have no access to a 3d printer?
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Walrus
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« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2017, 04:49:14 PM »

I bought the rotodamper printed from Ralph on that forum, the guy who designed it. However, I did not appreciate his attitude. The project is supposed to be open source/sharing, but when I asked him for the files so I could have a local friend print it for me, he declined saying he doesn't want someone copying his work and reproducing it for their own profit. I didn't appreciate the implication, assured him I wouldn't reproduce his work, and he still declined. I preferred his damper design, as the probes plug into the damper and are connected through ethernet to the controller. That way with my outdoor setup, the controller can be dry under my covered porch with the keg out in the weather. Now there are others on the HM forum offering good designs and printing services for next to nothing.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2017, 04:20:59 AM by Walrus » Logged
thedietz
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« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2017, 07:31:04 AM »

Yeah,

I am considering going with the MicroDamper right now.  I sent the guy an email.  I can't find any videos or pictures of it connected to an egg or keg.  I am 100% sure it is possible..i'd just like to see it before buying.  His with parts is about $35...not sure about shipping...mind if i ask what Ralph charged for the RD3?
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thedietz
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« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2017, 09:58:51 AM »

I bought the rotodamper printed from Ralph on that forum, the guy who designed it. However, I did not appreciate his attitude. The project is supposed to be open source/sharing, but when I asked him for the files so I could have a local friend print it for me, he declined saying he doesn't want someone copying his work and reproducing it for their own profit. I didn't appreciate the implication, assured him I wouldn't reproduce his work, and he still declined. I preferred his damper design, as the probes plug into the damper and are connected through ethernet to the controller. That way with my outdoor setup, the controller can be dry under my covered porch with the keg out in the weather. Now there are others on the HM forum offering good designs and printing services for next to nothing.

I actually read through a thread of Ralph arguing with another guy over the design and sharing of these files.  It put a bad enough taste in my mouth that I am not considering the RD3.  I just bought the microdamper.  I'll let you know how i make out.
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