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October 17, 2017, 10:27:14 PM *
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Author Topic: BKK5000 Ash drawer knob replacement  (Read 19398 times)
smokey
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« Reply #30 on: September 25, 2016, 11:59:02 PM »

Good,  that's how it should perform,  if the lump is well positioned, you can go over 24 hours. 
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kite
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« Reply #31 on: September 26, 2016, 07:08:35 AM »

Thats about how mine perform too. I ordered a TTT mine just got tested out last night.
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Alex
smokey
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« Reply #32 on: September 28, 2016, 08:20:16 PM »

I just got a  TT.  Not because I need it,  but because it's a cool gadget.  My neighbor could use it with his ceramic.
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Bubba_Gump
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« Reply #33 on: January 20, 2017, 09:40:15 AM »

I know this thread is several months old, but OMC recently finished sending me a new BKK5000 body and lid to replace my rusted out Bubba Keg.  It took 11 months, but it's finally back together and more importantly, back to cooking!

After my first few cooks with the new ash drawer, I was not pleased with the amount of air leakage past the new "improved" lower damper and ash tray, especially after taking care to seal all potential air and water ingress areas as I was rebuilding my Keg. Looking at Caveman's solution, I was convinced he was onto something.  I first tried drilling out the ash drawer receptacle and using 1/4-20 bolts and nuts, just as Caveman did, but that left the 1/4" nuts standing proud and requiring a deep bushing that would fit over them to keep the drawer tight. I'm sure that's what his thick rubber washers do.

Having just repaired one of the 3 hinge Rivnuts in the lid (it was spinning and wouldn't tighten), I decided to install a couple of 10-24 Rivnuts where Caveman installed his 1/4-20 bolts.






I then used male 10-24 Wingknobs to attach the ash tray to the receptacle face, using rubber gaskets to attempt a better air seal.



If it still leaks air, I plan to rivet a piece of flat steel spring to the back/bottom of the ash drawer to shim it off the floor of the Keg and prevent it from sagging at the rear.  This sag causes a gap to form at the bottom of the ash drawer faceplate.

I hope this info is useful to someone.
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ModernMan
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« Reply #34 on: January 20, 2017, 09:52:27 AM »

Thanks Bubba gump, (and Caveman) - much appreciated.

I may look more closely into your and Caveman's approach to better sealing the bottom drawer on the 5000, this spring or summer.
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Caveman
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« Reply #35 on: January 20, 2017, 03:03:15 PM »

How about that! Very nice! Either way I think it's a much better fix than the OEM knobs...and the end result looks identical!  Grin
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Bubba_Gump
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« Reply #36 on: January 20, 2017, 08:50:41 PM »

How about that! Very nice! Either way I think it's a much better fix than the OEM knobs...and the end result looks identical!  Grin
Thanks to you for the creative idea!  😉

I was playing with my Keg again today, trying to determine if the fix helped. I was using the tiny charcoal bag leftover pieces and wasn't cooking anything, so it wasn't a definitive test.   It seems to have stabilized the temps some, but I need to do a low-and-slow brisket or Boston Butt to fully evaluate the effects and determine if I can make further improvements.

Sent from my Droid Turbo using TapaTalk
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Caveman
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« Reply #37 on: January 21, 2017, 05:00:07 PM »

Yo Bubba, where did you get your riv nuts and how did you install without them spinning when you tighten with the wing knobs?

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Caveman
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« Reply #38 on: January 21, 2017, 05:53:34 PM »


If it still leaks air, I plan to rivet a piece of flat steel spring to the back/bottom of the ash drawer to shim it off the floor of the Keg and prevent it from sagging at the rear.  This sag causes a gap to form at the bottom of the ash drawer faceplate.

I hope this info is useful to someone.


By the way...the drawer shouldn't sag like you say if the knobs are tightly screwed in place...Mine doesn't move at all.
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Bubba_Gump
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« Reply #39 on: May 31, 2017, 05:38:41 AM »

Yo Bubba, where did you get your riv nuts and how did you install without them spinning when you tighten with the wing knobs?



Sorry for the delay, I don't get on here that often (too many hobbies, I guess. Wink )

I got my RivNuts and the tool at Northern Tool, although Harbor Freight carries a cheaper version.  My local Ace Hardware also carries an assortment of RivNuts. The installation tool looks like a rivet gun, so the RivNuts aren't turned when installing.  However, you could get creative snd install them without a tool using a bolt, washers, and a couple of nuts and wrenches.  There are Youtube videos showing this process.

Since I always have a need for installing them on various projects, I went ahead and bought the tool to speed up the installation process.
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Bubba_Gump
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« Reply #40 on: May 31, 2017, 05:55:12 AM »

By the way...the drawer shouldn't sag like you say if the knobs are tightly screwed in place...Mine doesn't move at all.

Well, it doesn't move when the wingnuts are tightened up, but there is a slight gap on the bottom of the faceplate when tight.  I only notice that when shutting off top & bottom dampers and observing smoke slowly leaking out the bottom of the faceplate.  There's obviously some degree of leakage there, but it's very slight.  If you take out the firebowl, you can reach down and rock the ash tray up and down, even with the wingnuts fully tightened.  But maybe I'm being too picky...it's the engineer in me, I guess.

I will say that it took a few months to get used to the cooking characteristics of the BKK5K vs. my old Bubba Keg. I still believe the old BK lower damper sealed tighter...or maybe I was just used to it.  Although the rotary damper on the BKK5K should be more repeatable and precise due to the markings/openings, I still find myself tinkering with the dampers more during a long cook on the BKK5K. One thing I have discovered is that I don't often find myself overshooting my desired temp when first firing up the BKK5K.  Maybe because the lower rotary damper doesn't allow in as much air as the old BK sliding damper?
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